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Ingredient Spotlight: Prickly Pear Seed Oil

Prickly pear seed oil, an emerging skincare superstar derived from the prickly pear cactus, is quickly gaining recognition in the beauty industry for all the right reasons. This remarkable oil, with its gentle, healing, and protective properties, represents a new era of rare seed oils that has been employed since the 1960s to combat the harsh effects of the sun while repairing and rejuvenating the skin and hair from photodamage, a practice cherished by Moroccan Royals. Laden with an abundance of vitamin E and a plethora of antioxidants, prickly pear seed oil stands out as one of the most potent and opulent natural ingredients available in the skincare market today.

But what exactly is prickly pear seed oil?

Also known as barbary fig oil or Indian fig oil, prickly pear seed oil is extracted from the striking prickly pear, scientifically named Opuntia ficus-indica, a member of the cactus family. This multifaceted plant encompasses pads, seeds, vibrant flowers (usually in shades of yellow, red, or purple), sturdy trunks, and, of course, the delectable fruit. Like its cactus relatives, it boasts prickles and can reach heights ranging from a mere foot to an impressive 6-7 feet.

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Now, let's delve into the origins and extraction of prickly pear seed oil:

While prickly pear cacti are indigenous to parts of the United States, Mexico, and South America and thrive in regions like Africa, Australia, and the Mediterranean, the most coveted prickly pear seed oil for skincare hails from Morocco. (We procure ours from the same local women-run cooperative that supplies our cherished argan oil.) To obtain this precious elixir, the seeds are typically hand-harvested and then meticulously processed using specialized machinery designed expressly for this purpose.

A Historical Perspective:

The versatility of the prickly pear has made it a revered botanical for healing and culinary purposes over centuries. The Aztecs utilized it to treat burns, the Chinese employed it as a dressing for abscesses, and Native Americans consumed its fruit and concocted syrup to combat ailments like whooping cough and asthma. In traditional Mexican medicine, it played a role in managing diabetes and high cholesterol. Even more intriguingly, Mexicans utilized it for architectural and property marking purposes. In recent times, prickly pear seed oil has emerged as a prominent ingredient in skincare routines.

The Pricy Secret:

Despite the fact that prickly pear fruits carry an average of 150-300 seeds each, these seeds are minuscule, containing only around 5% oil. It takes a staggering one ton of prickly pear fruits to yield just one liter of oil. Consequently, the oil commands a premium price tag. However, it's worth noting that prickly pear cultivation is exceptionally sustainable.

Unlocking the Benefits for Skin:

Who better to elucidate the unique properties of prickly pear seed oil than MŪN's founder, Munemi Imai? A seasoned skincare expert and professional makeup artist with over two decades of experience in the fashion, beauty, and entertainment industry, Munemi's discovery of prickly pear seed oil's benefits during a sojourn in Morocco prompted the creation of MŪN's inaugural product, Aknari Brightening Youth Serum.

According to Munemi, prickly pear seed oil boasts a plethora of benefits, including the reduction of fine lines, prevention of premature wrinkle formation, brightening of dark under-eye circles, soothing of redness, relief for sunburn, and overall improvement of complexion. Notably, prickly pear seed oil reigns supreme in its vitamin E content, surpassing all other plant oils on the market, including argan oil, by a factor of three. Furthermore, its richness in linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid, has been proven to ameliorate sun-induced hyper-pigmentation, fortify the skin's protective barrier, reduce moisture loss, and enhance hydration.

But there's more to this remarkable oil. Munemi continues, explaining that prickly pear seed oil contains Vitamin K, known for its capacity to brighten under-eye circles, even out skin tone, and diminish broken capillaries. It also boasts zinc, which aids in reducing redness and inflammation associated with acne lesions while regulating oil production. The combination of phytosterols and natural essential fatty acids found in this oil is particularly effective for addressing anti-aging concerns and stimulating new collagen production.

The Science Behind Prickly Pear Seed Oil:

Let's delve deeper into the components of prickly pear seed oil that underpin its extraordinary effectiveness:

Fatty Acids:

All vegetable oils, and indeed prickly pear seed oil, contain both nonessential and essential fatty acids (EFAs). When the skin lacks sufficient EFAs, its protective barrier becomes compromised, increasing the risk of dryness, irritation, and dullness.

Prickly pear seed oil stands out with the highest percentage (88%) of unsaturated fatty acids, which play a pivotal role in fostering healthy cell production and turnover. It also boasts the highest tocopherol (vitamin E) content among beauty oils, bolstering skin protection and moisture retention.

Breaking down the fatty acid composition, we find:

  • Linoleic acid (60.5%): An omega-6 EFA, linoleic acid nourishes and repairs the skin, strengthening its barrier, and reducing inflammation. Sometimes referred to as vitamin F, it combats acne, softens the skin, and aids in the healing of minor burns and cold sores. It also benefits nails, cuticles, and hair.

  • Oleic acid (20.6%): Also found in avocados, almond oil, and olive oil, oleic acid seals in moisture and facilitates the penetration of other beneficial ingredients into the skin.

  • Palmitic acid (13.9%): Found in palm tree oil, this acid possesses antioxidant and healing properties and can assist in managing dermatitis and eczema. Its natural presence in our skin diminishes with age.

Tocopherols (Vitamin E):

Prickly pear seed oil contains almost 150% more vitamin E than argan oil. This naturally occurring antioxidant acts as a scavenger for free radicals, preventing them from causing damage that contributes to the signs of aging. It also boasts robust anti-inflammatory properties, promoting swifter wound healing and the repair of damage inflicted by UV rays and environmental pollutants. It is particularly beneficial for sunburns and redness.

Vitamin E also excels as a moisturizer, hydrating the skin while averting further moisture loss, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It fosters the protection and regeneration of skin cells responsible for collagen and elastin production, crucial for maintaining skin's elasticity and structure.

Phytosterols:

Functioning akin to cholesterol, phytosterols in prickly pear seed oil bind to water, offering substantial benefits for the skin. When applied topically, these water-binding phytosterols help the skin retain moisture, fortifying the skin's barrier for enhanced strength and vitality. They also play a pivotal role in collagen production, sustaining youthful, supple skin, and have demonstrated the capacity to reverse the signs of aging.

Polyphenols:

These compounds are a true powerhouse, boasting antioxidant, anti inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic properties, in addition to combatting oxidative stress—an imbalance between free radical production and the body's capacity to defend against it. Much like tocopherols, polyphenols also function as free radical scavengers.


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